Mr. Cho in DubDub Chan
Actually, it’s a Ring Jacket MTM but thanks for the mention! Man, I wish it were cold enough to wear it again.
If you have itunes, download the monocle episode that is featuring The Amoury. Its only about 2 minutes, but its classic.
Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner smooth lining, there are several layers of fabric to keep the jacket in shape, this layer is called the canvas. The difference between a full canvas, half canvas and fused jacket front is not immediately apparent as this layer is not seen unless the jacket is taken apart. This difference however is crucial in determining the quality, comfort, fit and durability of the garment.
The method of construction which offers the highest level of quality in all aspects is canvas construction. A canvas front jacket has an inner layer of horsehair which floats in between the jacket front and lining. This method of construction offers the highest level of quality for several reasons. Firstly a canvas front jacket offers a level of durability which is unmatched by other types of construction. One of the problems with fused jackets is that over time with regular wear and dry cleaning the fusing has a tendency to shrink or separate from the jacket front which causes unsightly wrinkling and puckering. This will never happen with a full or half canvas jacket as the canvas in not actually attached to the jacket (except at the lapels) but rather floats in between the jacket front and lining. Another benefit of canvas construction is that because of the flexibility of the horsehair canvas the jacket will actually mold to the shape of the wearer and fit better and more comfortably over time.
Canvas construction is a much more tedious and time consuming process than other means of construction (there are over a thousand stitches in the lapel alone which attach the canvas to the jacket front) and as a result this method of construction gives a crispness and fullness to the body of a jacket which is not possible with other methods of construction. The only real difference between full canvas and half canvas construction is that on a half canvas jacket the canvas extends to just below the front pocket and not all the way to the hem as with a full canvas. Half canvas construction is excellent for use in lighter weight fabrics because it creates a lightweight, comfortable jacket but still has the same benefits of full canvas, such as greater durability, pad stitched lapels, etc.
Ozwald Boateng 2011 Autumn/Winter Look Book: Making Of
I take my ques on fine tailoring from men who have made it doing what they love to do. Oz clearly takes it to the next level while others have a more subtle approach. It’s not better, it’s not worse. It’s Oz. And I wouldn’t ask for anything else. Oz seems to be toning down a bit on the more bold colors with this season. But his “distinctive” look stays true. Enjoy
My takeaway from this: I’m going to hurry up and have a son, move to Italy, and raise him to be a tailor so by the time I’m 40 I can have my own personal tailor. Taking applications from women looking to help make this blogger’s dream come true now.
The above is a trailer to Men of the Cloth, a video documentary about three world-class tailors with an Italian heritage - Joseph Centofanti, Nino Corvato, and Checchino Fonticoli.
All three men face a common problem. They’ve spent their lives honing their Old World tailoring skills, but are now in the twilight of their careers and need to pass their knowledge to someone else. This film is partly about these men’s careers and legacies, and partly about the wonderful world of bespoke tailoring. It’s a subject matter that’s very much in the scope of many people’s passions here.
Vicki Vasilopoulos, the director of the film, currently needs to raise some money in order to edit the film in time for some film festivals. I encourage you to check out her IndieGoGo crowdsourcing page and consider giving a little donation. She has some rewards for people who donate a certain amount, but you can contribute as little as $1.
Speaking of IndieGoGo, Chris Callis from Men of Habit is launching a print magazine about the classic, tailored menswear. The magazine will feature articles about Savile Row and Italian craftsman, as well as personal style portraits of some of the menswear industry’s bests. If you enjoy publications such as The Rake, Men’s Ex, or Leon, I think you’ll really enjoy this magazine. I’m working with Chris on the project and I’m excited to say that I think this will be one of the best publications on the market. The magazine needs funding to get off the ground, however, so if you’re interested in helping, check out this IndieGoGo page as well.
Alan Flusser and Simply Refined.
Alan’s a much-talked-about legend in the menswear world. He’s taught multiple generations of men how to dress and is showing no signs of slowing. Very upfront about the fact that he’s not a tailor himself, Alan is just as focused on the cerebral aspects of dressing as on the physical. When it comes to learning to dress there are lots stupid questions, and Alan’s goal is to provide his followers with smart questions with even smarter answers. Read More
Puff Drops In To The Store Before His UK Show
Hip-Hop mogul and Bad Boy legend Puff managed to squeeze in a visit to Savile Row before his big UK show, and dropped in to the Ozwald Boateng Store. Whilst down at No. 30 he caught up with the man himself and got fitted out for a few suits while he was at it.
Style / Travel: Manufacture the Series Day 1 of 8.
Esquire travels with Patrick Grant of E. Tautz and Norton and Sons, a Savile Row tailor, on a two-thousand mile, eight-day tour of Great Britain, to showcase the ancient skills and modern artistry behind some legendary manufacturers.
I stumbled on this from @pelicansparrots blog For the next 7 days we will will give you each day of the series, focusing on the art and heritage of British craftsmanship.
Read more: http://www.esquire.com/style/manufacture-textile-factory-video-tours#ixzz1IVK2Tz7t
Dressing Like an Italian
This video is a short trailer for an upcoming documentary by Kid Dandy about the traditions and techniques of Italian tailors in Naples. And it’s currently making its ways around the web—we happened upon the video on the GQ blog, which found it via the Huffington Post by way of the Canadian blog Inqmnd. With a romantic jazz score fit for an old black and white Italian love story from the ’60s, the video celebrates the subtle art of stitching a suit. Enjoy.