Easy as 1, 2, 3 or A, B, C!
What I’m trying to say is one does not need to “over-cook” the pocket square stuff or try some origami BS..
Details: Jacket (part of suit) - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” for GW | PS - Tom FUKING Ford | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason “Silver line” poplin for GW | Tie - Herringbone in woven silk chocolate mini hounds tooth | Pantaloons - Incotex | Hoofs (not visible) - John Lobb City II in pewter suede in 7000 last for Leather Soul
Why Style Matters.
Hi everyone. This is Nickelson. If you have been following menswear blogs for longer than 24 hours, he should look familiar to you. A lot of you look at this and say. “Hey I could definitely rock shorts with a suit.” You take a stab at it, but it comes up short… First lets cover the concept of shorts with a suit added to your personal style. I posted Thomas Riley’ of P Johnson tailors Sartorial Summer Ettiquite video last year and reblogged it recently. When you are a master tailor like Thomas or have been involved in menswear for close to three decades like Nickelson, you know the rules of style. More importantly you know which rules to break .
Will Welch recently posted Yo, Your “Street Style” is Buggin’ explaining how the transition of influence has moved from the runways to the streets outside of the runways. Where are these people getting their style points? You guessed it, the interweb. I am someone who can claim to be dressed by the internet. My online alma mater is one known to most as Styleform.net. Before there was an influx of style blogs to give you daily advice on style and fashion, there was this. The focus from the beginning was never on fashion, but on style, cut, and aesthetics. If you just wanted to learn you could search for hours on this site on basic style tips. If that didn’t do it, you cold check out the WIWT section and see how some of the more inclined were getting down. All in all these individuals put time effort and left themselves open for scrutiny. To this day I am still self conscious about posting WIWT on that thread.
Now, lets fast forward to today. WIWT is posted in a matter of seconds without much rhyme or reason. Someone post what they wore. They receive a few likes, very little if any reblogs. No comments. The images are recycled over and over. Bad cut here, not matching there. Because of the lack of comments, the poster learns 0. Maybe the color combination was right but the fit was off. Maybe the fit was right but the jacket was out of season. I feel that the conversation needs to be moved towards the basics. Style, cut, fit. Sid Mashburn said to GQ a while back “hey read a lot and want to hone in on the details: stitches per inch…shoe welting…bespoke this and bespoke that…just wild…” When the conversation switches to who is doing it wrong towards who is doing it right, a new medium begins to open. The “teachers” revert back to being students, since clearly they have no idea of fabrics, stitches per inch or the details of the craftsmanship behind it.
By doing this, it becomes less relevant on how they are wearing what they are wearing and who and why they are wearing that. In the menswear world the smaller the brand, the more detail they put into it, the more we appreciate. Being teachers to a younger generation is our responsibility. By doing this everyone benefits. We demand more from ourselves in what we put on our bodies. We demand more from the brands in regards to how they manufacture their goods. We then demand more from the quality of images that are reblogged and uploaded to the interweb. Someone can take a look and say, “maybe I shouldn’t post this” or if they do “Can anyone help me with this look”
Just my 2 cents
Shout out to anoblesavage:
“PROJECT WOOSTER” Nick Wooster at PROJECT WOOSTER 2011
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Ali of A NOBLE SAVAGE
What happens when Gianni Agnelli meets the Duke of Windsor for some rugby & a beer?
Most would agree the two most iconic, stylish dressers of the 20th century are Gianni Agnelli & Prince Edward (aka the Duke of Windsor). These two men together contributed more dapperness than all the “swaggers” (hate this word) have today.
Kanye W is FASHUN, period..
Stars aligned or just good pattern matching?
It’s hard enough to get a suits balance & proportion correct, let alone align the cloth pattern. In practice, only 80% of the cloth’s pattern can correctly aligned, so it’s up to the cutter to ensure the obvious areas matched - the front & rear of the body, the pockets, sleeve head, &, most importantly the sleeves as they lay alongside the body.
It is also important to ensure that the pattern is balanced in such a way to not be visually distorting. This is especially so with cloth patterns such as this double windowpane check that I am wearing. Imagine if your suit made you look round..
DubMunks are the rage at the moment, but in my opinion, most of the new ones are either overly designed or clunky. There is enough happening with the double straps & buckles, so sleek & simple is best.
Edward Green has been making the “Westminster” on the 888 last for some time now - actually well before Gen-Y or Gen X 2.0 took interest in “social media” as we know it. Very little has changed, for good reason. This pair is a special order for Leather Soul, & the Dainite rubber sole for foul weather or travel. THUMBS UP!
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” suiting for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Loro Piana | PS - Herringbone | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede, 888 last on Dainite sole for Leather Soul
Most men who are interested in dressing well are subconsciously influenced by either Gianni Agnelli & the Duke of Windsor (or both).
Can you see what style cues I have merged?