“Every man’s wardrobe has links to yesterday. Something his father or grandfather wore and passed on to him. At the same time every man’s wardrobe has links to tomorrow. Something he hopes to pass on to his son one day. These are the links of today.”
Check out the links at his store.
We recently had a new MTM shirt come in from our new friends at Modern Tailor. We had read several other reviews of the company and product and we decided to give it a try ourselves. We admit we were a bit skeptical of the $20 MTM dress shirt made in 3 days and shipped in 10-14. Fortunately it turned out to be a good choice.
Details: 100% 2 play pinpoint cotton. Unstructured/unfused club collar with contrast portifino cuff (AKA the cocktail cuff, AKA the James Bond Cuff) and collar. No pocket, split yoke, no pleat, darted, MOP Buttons with contrast thread, colored cuff holes, monogrammed on left rib.
Good: The fit is great. The shoulders snug, the waist is tailored without being tight. The armholes and sleeves are slim without being constricting. The cuffs hit just right at the wrist. The collar is just right even after washing. Not too big and not too tight. This is our first shirt with an unstructured/unfused collar which makes for a more comfortable and relaxed fit than the standard structured/fused. The style is durable and not too flashy. We can wear this shirt now and 10 years from now. Provided we don’t gain too much weight. The customer service was great. All questions and were answered quickly and thoroughly. There was no hand holding through the selection process so we’re glad we do this on a regular basis since there are over 1000 fabrics to choose from. They offer an expedited service which will get your shirt made faster, not necessarily shipped faster, but at least its an option.
Bad: The tail is too short for our liking. It seems to be a full inch shorter than our other MTM shirts. We were concerned about it staying tucked. However, after our first wearing it turned out OK. The collar is too high. In these days of the shrunken collar its easy to forgot most men of true style wear higher collars. The collar points sit higher and gives the chin a more structured stance. Having a longer neck requires a taller collar while having a shorter neck requires a shorter collar. After wearing it through the day the height ended up not being as much of a problem as we thought. This is probably due to the softness and flexibility of an unfused collar. With a structured collar it would most likely be too rigid and stiff.
Overall we had a good experience with Modern Tailor and their process. The shirt wears well and looks good. We look forward to try them again.
Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner smooth lining, there are several layers of fabric to keep the jacket in shape, this layer is called the canvas. The difference between a full canvas, half canvas and fused jacket front is not immediately apparent as this layer is not seen unless the jacket is taken apart. This difference however is crucial in determining the quality, comfort, fit and durability of the garment.
The method of construction which offers the highest level of quality in all aspects is canvas construction. A canvas front jacket has an inner layer of horsehair which floats in between the jacket front and lining. This method of construction offers the highest level of quality for several reasons. Firstly a canvas front jacket offers a level of durability which is unmatched by other types of construction. One of the problems with fused jackets is that over time with regular wear and dry cleaning the fusing has a tendency to shrink or separate from the jacket front which causes unsightly wrinkling and puckering. This will never happen with a full or half canvas jacket as the canvas in not actually attached to the jacket (except at the lapels) but rather floats in between the jacket front and lining. Another benefit of canvas construction is that because of the flexibility of the horsehair canvas the jacket will actually mold to the shape of the wearer and fit better and more comfortably over time.
Canvas construction is a much more tedious and time consuming process than other means of construction (there are over a thousand stitches in the lapel alone which attach the canvas to the jacket front) and as a result this method of construction gives a crispness and fullness to the body of a jacket which is not possible with other methods of construction. The only real difference between full canvas and half canvas construction is that on a half canvas jacket the canvas extends to just below the front pocket and not all the way to the hem as with a full canvas. Half canvas construction is excellent for use in lighter weight fabrics because it creates a lightweight, comfortable jacket but still has the same benefits of full canvas, such as greater durability, pad stitched lapels, etc.
I am always happy to see collaborations in menswear. This video is great because the direction and style. The DUS’s creative vision is always on point and engaging. Grant is a Menswear and Style blogger who also takes his expertise to the next level with Image Granted LLC. Grant is one of the nicest and realest dudes in the city. It’s always a good time with the guy.
Shout out to:thedusociety
We’ve been working hard behind the scenes to bring our audience something special. Today we announce the debut of our own custom men’s furnishings collection to include cuff links, wallets and small leather goods for the stylish, professional man. We’ve partnered with Vvego International to present an assortment of exclusive and unique men’s furnishings available online at our own web store for purchase late September 2011. The collection will launch with original cuff links in several colors offered in Acrylic, Titanium, and Tru Stone; not found anywhere else on the market. All designs were carefully curated by our team and hand picked for crafting.
Vvego International is respected for its durability, custom-made designs and quality, while manufacturing each product in the USA. We’re proud to partner with an established, high quality brand like Vvego to bring our clients and customers unique and exclusive accessories for the man of style. Together we look forward to dressing men for the life they want. Stay tuned for updates on the store and progress with the collection.
If it weren’t for our duties here in DC for this year’s Fashion’s Night Out festivities we’d be in the house for our friends Ovadia & Sons celebration at Bloomingdale’s in NYC. These guys have come a long way in a short time and we’re proud of their success. If you can make it tell the Shimon and Ariel we sent you. Here’s what you can expect to see on hand.
Recently we took our sartorial journey to the windy city of Chicago and spoke with the owner and proprietor of Sebastien Grey (SG) a high end custom clothier with several locations throughout Chicago. SG offers its clientele a full MTM experience from cutting a single pattern to offering the highest quality fabrics, and Bemberg linings. Everything from shirts to waistcoats, to tuxedos and suits. Suiting takes at least 4 weeks depending on fabric detail and quantity. Entry level suits start at $799 and the highest offerings come in at $2499 and above although the average is between $1000-$1500. They offer fabrics at $20 a yard and others at $500 a yard. Depending on your needs and how deep your pockets are they can accommodate you. 100% cotton shirting begins at $119 and goes up to $250. Trousers and waistcoats come in at $150, sportcoats at $499, outerwear begins at $799, and tuxedos come in at $899.
All SG product is made here in the USA with manufacturing plants in New York and Chicago handmade by local tailors. The owners actually started out in the salon and barbershop game and decided to add clothing to their operation. HALO [for men] is the namesake of their barbershop and they own and operate several across Chicago but only three offer SB bespoke services. They offer an English cut with high armholes, a nipped waist with tapered trousers. In the near future looking to expand their 3 Chicago locations to Ann Arbor, Michigan and NYC. San Diego, and LA are also on the map with DC not too far in the future. Check them out the next time you’re in the windy city.
Jack Wills Coming to D.C. You just got put on by. @ImageGranted.
The British are invading again. This time in the form of Tweed jackets, country brogues, Fair Isle sweaters and Union Jack flags. Born and bred for the collegiate prep, Jack Wills is the newest retail shop to open its doors to DC. Located in Georgetown, the English born brand celebrated its grand opening last week. We’ll be stopping in to give you a peek at the offerings but we think the most interesting news about Jack Wills is the shoemaker behind its brogues.
Click here for more
The Big Homie Grant Harris of Image Granted chilling with K-Street Kate and the other Real Big Homie Ebong Eka. Ebong not only has his own line of menswear suits, but is also a financial wiz, check out his blog. Grant in my opinion is the most intellectual young dude in menswear. Very humble and knowledgeable stay on the look out for him.