Linen + Linen + Linen.. It’s getting warm & perfect for “business casual”
Details | Jacket - P Johnson in Ariston denim linen for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Drake’s “vintage reserve cloth” for GW | Pantaloons - RLPL | Knit tie - Hermes | PS - Herringbone | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in suede on 888 last & Dainite sole for Leather Soul for GW
GW, a practised dresser who wears his clothes without pretension or over study, look at how easy his tie knot and pocket square are for him…
What happens when Gianni Agnelli meets the Duke of Windsor for some rugby & a beer?
Most would agree the two most iconic, stylish dressers of the 20th century are Gianni Agnelli & Prince Edward (aka the Duke of Windsor). These two men together contributed more dapperness than all the “swaggers” (hate this word) have today.
Kanye W is FASHUN, period..
Stars aligned or just good pattern matching?
It’s hard enough to get a suits balance & proportion correct, let alone align the cloth pattern. In practice, only 80% of the cloth’s pattern can correctly aligned, so it’s up to the cutter to ensure the obvious areas matched - the front & rear of the body, the pockets, sleeve head, &, most importantly the sleeves as they lay alongside the body.
It is also important to ensure that the pattern is balanced in such a way to not be visually distorting. This is especially so with cloth patterns such as this double windowpane check that I am wearing. Imagine if your suit made you look round..
DubMunks are the rage at the moment, but in my opinion, most of the new ones are either overly designed or clunky. There is enough happening with the double straps & buckles, so sleek & simple is best.
Edward Green has been making the “Westminster” on the 888 last for some time now - actually well before Gen-Y or Gen X 2.0 took interest in “social media” as we know it. Very little has changed, for good reason. This pair is a special order for Leather Soul, & the Dainite rubber sole for foul weather or travel. THUMBS UP!
Details | Suit - P Johnson in Loro Piana “Zelander” suiting for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang in Thomas Mason for GW | Tie - Loro Piana | PS - Herringbone | DubMunks - Edward Green “Westminster” in Mole suede, 888 last on Dainite sole for Leather Soul
Most men who are interested in dressing well are subconsciously influenced by either Gianni Agnelli & the Duke of Windsor (or both).
Can you see what style cues I have merged?
Feeling average, hence the faceless expression.
Notes: Suit & Shirt - P Johnson for GW, Knit Tie - E. Zegna, Lapel Flower - Strassburgo Tokyo, PS - Herringbone, Shoes - Edward Green “Dover” for Leather Soul, Bag - Ettinger for The Armoury
- I like to have my suits made so that I can wear them separately, & the patch pockets lends this flexibility
- Patch pockets come in all shapes & IMO Patrick has one of the most sensual pockets that have a certain allure that is not apparent at first.
- Also note that the hip patch pockets are curved downwards to the front so as to enable the placement of hands & when sitting down less chances of anything spilling out.
- Pattern matching is also important to not break the flow of lines, to be shaped to the wearer & especially in patterned cloth such as this “gun-check” from Loro Piana which is more complex than a Prince-of-Wales check.
- All my suits are 1/2 lined as I prefer to layer up if need be or as recently displayed, sweater as scarf around the shoulder
- The “Dover” is considered the quintessential show from Ed Green, down to the blind pig’s bristle ghost toe stitch & the 606 last (not too round & not too sharp). Can be dressed down with RAW denim & dressed up in a pinch - the ideal travel shoe.
- & I’m sure there are some rules broken in this, but at the end of the day it is also about balance & harmony & what feels right on the day..
shout out to:mostexerent: