A Distinctive Taste

Savile Row Part 1 of 3

Great series by the BBC covering a transition on the historical Savile Row.  In this episode they cover the impending opening of an A&F flagship store and what it may do to the rent.  They also cover the business side of being a Savile Row tailor, which really peaked my interest.  The series also covers some of the new blood on The Row by visiting the homie Patrick Grant of Norton & Sons.  Very detailed series.  I can’t find parts two and three.  Will post when I find. 

This mood in his shop is similar to one I would like to have for a TSF gathering. I like his take on bespoke. 

Bespoke by Duncan Quinn

Shout out to:presentingcorey

Image Granted said that he first wanted to just get bespoke suits, but that is played.  It’s all about the bespoke footwear.  I agree

You think Allen Edmonds are handmade? Not like these. Check out the sewing machine used for the uppers, that is Green sewing.

(via [you_have_broken_the_internet])

The Commonwealth Proper suit shop in Philadelphia.

Just got off the phone with Craig of dieproper.  The dude is so on the level its not even funny.  Looks like a road trip to Philly is now in order.  If you are not up on them.  Please do so. 

Oxxford Clothes - Made in the USA

Silly but fun: Cad & The Dandy propaganda

Behind the scenes of a photo shoot that I agreed to be pert of to help out one of the tailors I have used.

You may just be able to spot me a couple of times!

Shout out to:giantbeard

There’s obviously something rumpus in the air at present, as both THE RAKE and our friends at Timothy Everest have each recently come up with graceful musings on pugilism. Mixing fisticuffs and shirt cuffs, a fashion editorial by Andy Barnham in the new September / October issue of THE RAKE (see images here) plays upon the theme of two sharp-dressed east London ‘firms’ pitting their champs against one another, while an elegant short film conceptualized by the house of Everest (embedded below) and directed by Joshua Osborne shadow-boxes around similarly fracas-focused matters. Tailoring and contenders – the mood’s a little bit Savile Row, a tad squabble and row.

HitoFilms shoots John Lobb

JL has been a favorite footwear brand of mine for years.  I have always appreciated how they have managed to stay ahead of the curve while staying true to their heritage.  Not many brands can execute in such a way. The narration of this short is in French but that doesn’t take away from the great shots of how they craft these one of a kind shoes.  Also the interview is conducted in English.  Enjoy

Start With a Blank Canvas By Image Granted

Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner smooth lining, there are several layers of fabric to keep the jacket in shape, this layer is called the canvas. The difference between a full canvas, half canvas and fused jacket front is not immediately apparent as this layer is not seen unless the jacket is taken apart. This difference however is crucial in determining the quality, comfort, fit and durability of the garment.


The method of construction which offers the highest level of quality in all aspects is canvas construction. A canvas front jacket has an inner layer of horsehair which floats in between the jacket front and lining. This method of construction offers the highest level of quality for several reasons. Firstly a canvas front jacket offers a level of durability which is unmatched by other types of construction. One of the problems with fused jackets is that over time with regular wear and dry cleaning the fusing has a tendency to shrink or separate from the jacket front which causes unsightly wrinkling and puckering. This will never happen with a full or half canvas jacket as the canvas in not actually attached to the jacket (except at the lapels) but rather floats in between the jacket front and lining. Another benefit of canvas construction is that because of the flexibility of the horsehair canvas the jacket will actually mold to the shape of the wearer and fit better and more comfortably over time. 


Canvas construction is a much more tedious and time consuming process than other means of construction (there are over a thousand stitches in the lapel alone which attach the canvas to the jacket front) and as a result this method of construction gives a crispness and fullness to the body of a jacket which is not possible with other methods of construction. The only real difference between full canvas and half canvas construction is that on a half canvas jacket the canvas extends to just below the front pocket and not all the way to the hem as with a full canvas. Half canvas construction is excellent for use in lighter weight fabrics because it creates a lightweight, comfortable jacket but still has the same benefits of full canvas, such as greater durability, pad stitched lapels, etc.

Naples Salvatore Ambrosi adds abitofcolor to the waist band of his trousers. If you ever have a chance to have Salvatore make you a pair of pants, by all means do it. You will be spoiled. Aside from the amazing fit and handwork, note the details such as the button fly and button cuffs. You never know when you might have to clean out spilled caviar……..

-Gus

Shout out to:abitofcolor